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Clutch Carnage

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Daniboy1983

Well-Known Member
Well this weekend I changed the clutch along with the trans and oil pan in my car, and that is what I found. (crappy cell phone pic)

0212001821.jpg


It WAS a Ford Racing King Cobra clutch, but now its just pieces. It let go under full power at about 135mph or so. Not during a crazy 5-6k launch or anything stupid. I was just cruising and lost power. Sounded horrific after I killed the motor and coasted to a stop. I heard all kinds of grinding and scratching sounds. Anyway I just figured I'd share the carnage.
 
DSGimportslayer

DSGimportslayer

DSG in the hisouse!
Staff member
i had a king cobra clutch in my car too. it exploded at the track. the pucks on the disc were disentegrated. it was pretty gnarley
 
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sdtraviesosd

Well-Known Member
eeeeeeeeeeew. No damage to the housing or input shaft? I inspect everything, since it flung all those pieces around while you were decelerating from 130... errrr i mean 65..? right :D
 
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Mustangcwo

Guest
Here is my $.02 on clutches:

If you are building a high tq, high hp engine, then you need to conduct some research on the clutch you are installing.

First of all, I recommend the Stage 3 clutch. It has increased gripping power...helps to save the flywheel and also has a fanblade design that allows for better cooling and less chance of ending up in pieces.

Secondly, ensure the company is using a heavy-duty sprung center unit that boasts heat treated springs and retainer rivets for the maximum power and durability.

Lastly, Ensure the clutch is certified. The clutch should specify: S.F.I. specification 1.1 on the box. Otherwise, you are rolling the dice.

This is what I'm running in my car along with the matching chrome-molly flywheel:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-R...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5d280260ce

Yes, a $600 clutch for under $200.
 
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Paul Huizenga

Well-Known Member
Mustangcwo said:
Here is my $.02 on clutches:

If you are building a high tq, high hp engine, then you need to conduct some research on the clutch you are installing.

First of all, I recommend the Stage 3 clutch. It has increased gripping power...helps to save the flywheel and also has a fanblade design that allows for better cooling and less chance of ending up in pieces.

Secondly, ensure the company is using a heavy-duty sprung center unit that boasts heat treated springs and retainer rivets for the maximum power and durability.

Lastly, Ensure the clutch is certified. The clutch should specify: S.F.I. specification 1.1 on the box. Otherwise, you are rolling the dice.

This is what I'm running in my car along with the matching chrome-molly flywheel:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-R...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5d280260ce

Yes, a $600 clutch for under $200.
Click to expand...

One quibble - "stage 3" isn't really a meaningful description, since every manufacturer has a different idea of what that means. Puck material and count, sprung or solid hub, with or without marcel - all of those can vary.
 
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Daniboy1983

Well-Known Member
sdtraviesosd said:
eeeeeeeeeeew. No damage to the housing or input shaft? I inspect everything, since it flung all those pieces around while you were decelerating from 130... errrr i mean 65..? right :D
Click to expand...

Surprisingly the clutch was the only thing I found broken. I didn't really look at the trans very well since it was an old srod 4 speed and I was replacing it with a 3550. The housing looked good with no signs of any damage. Luckily the pressure plate contained almost all of it.

Oh and I drove the car back to the barracks tonight with no exhaust, and now I really really wish I didn't have to put it all back together. I love running open headers!!!:rock:

Also the bellhousing for the srod bolted right up to the 3550.
 
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