beejay31000
BULLWINKLE
if you had a maf it would look like this...(this one does not utilizse the stock intake piping, but you can see the maf sensor in the middle. it has the wires plugged into it)
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Crazy Idle,help!!
- Thread starter Gawthle
- Start date
beejay31000
BULLWINKLE
emilio is the master at the....he helped me. i think i had more codes than you. erase them all so there isnt any in memory...then when they pop up...go one by one til you fix all of em....thats what we did. and a couple hundred dollars later and all new sensors installed she runs great
W
wickedstangs
Guest
Gawthle said:
Which mass air do you have? 1st or 2nd pic?
beejay31000
BULLWINKLE
he had the first one...none
W
wickedstangs
Guest
Ect 21 Fault Code
Gawthle for fault code 21-ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
You can check the voltage and see if it is within tolerance.
Before you start blaming the engine coolant temperature sensor and replacing it make sure the rest of the coolant system is in good condition. All of the following items will affect the ECT:
*Coolant level
*Radiator Fan
*Water Pump
*Water Pump and Fan Belts
*Thermostat
*Base Timing
*Engines general condition
*Harness and wire general condition
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermal transistor, which means it allows less electricity to pass through the sensor the warmer it gets. The ECT receives the “Signal Return” voltage from the EEC, then allows a certain amount to return back to the EEC. Because the ECT is in direct contact with the engine coolant flow it changes resistance in response to the temperature of that coolant.
The ECT is third in command in the hierarchy of EFI sensors, this means this sensor is very important when calculating fuel ratios and timing curves. This is because of simply chemistry; fuel and spark are constants in the equation. Air is the biggest variable in combustion; it changes density greatly over a range of temperature. So keeping track of the changing temperatures of the incoming air and the engine in which it is burnt becomes very important. But due to its simplicity of design, the ECT is rarely at fault when problems occur.
Before testing the ECT or any other EFI component perform a self-test, trouble codes received during test can be used as a diagnostic tool along with other indicators. To test an ECT sensor you will need a volt meter. You can test the ECT by back probing the harness while reading the voltage returning to the EEC. Or you can removing the connector completely and test the resistance between the 2 pins on the ECT. The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature.
Gawthle said:
Gawthle for fault code 21-ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
You can check the voltage and see if it is within tolerance.
Before you start blaming the engine coolant temperature sensor and replacing it make sure the rest of the coolant system is in good condition. All of the following items will affect the ECT:
*Coolant level
*Radiator Fan
*Water Pump
*Water Pump and Fan Belts
*Thermostat
*Base Timing
*Engines general condition
*Harness and wire general condition
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermal transistor, which means it allows less electricity to pass through the sensor the warmer it gets. The ECT receives the “Signal Return” voltage from the EEC, then allows a certain amount to return back to the EEC. Because the ECT is in direct contact with the engine coolant flow it changes resistance in response to the temperature of that coolant.
The ECT is third in command in the hierarchy of EFI sensors, this means this sensor is very important when calculating fuel ratios and timing curves. This is because of simply chemistry; fuel and spark are constants in the equation. Air is the biggest variable in combustion; it changes density greatly over a range of temperature. So keeping track of the changing temperatures of the incoming air and the engine in which it is burnt becomes very important. But due to its simplicity of design, the ECT is rarely at fault when problems occur.
Before testing the ECT or any other EFI component perform a self-test, trouble codes received during test can be used as a diagnostic tool along with other indicators. To test an ECT sensor you will need a volt meter. You can test the ECT by back probing the harness while reading the voltage returning to the EEC. Or you can removing the connector completely and test the resistance between the 2 pins on the ECT. The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature.
beejay31000
BULLWINKLE
sweet...more of that knowledge...lol
wickedstangs said:
sorry it took so long to respond, the semester starts tomorrow and its been madning trying to get everything squared away
*i replaced the sending unit before i checked the codes (per a shop's suggestion) because my thermostat guage was not working at all. it works now, and the idle was crazy before and after the sending unit was replaced.
*the coolant level is full and properly mixed, with the overflow resevoir at the appropriate level.
*the radiator fan and the clutch both function properly
*the water pump appears to be operating correctly. what i did to test was i looked for any visible leaks, which i did not find, and then i let the engine warm up until the internal thermostat was open. i shut off the car, took off the radiator cap, and started the car, watching the water go from being stationary to flowing. so i assumed that it is working, at least a little bit.
*the internal thermostat its self works as i tried taking off the radiator cap prematurely and the water did not flow through the block, just sat in the radiator jigglin around
*we already figured out my base timing was correct as i followed your directions; removing the stout and timing the motor
The motor APPEARS to be in good to great condition. the wiring harness i can not tell as it is double taped with electrical tape....
An update....
I re-checked my codes. The battery in my scanner was going out, so I figured i would get a new battery and go over the testing once more to make sure it didnt miss any or something stupid
The only codes it lists now are = 82, 21, 94, and 44....so from 8 codes to 4, woohoo !
I re-checked my codes. The battery in my scanner was going out, so I figured i would get a new battery and go over the testing once more to make sure it didnt miss any or something stupid
The only codes it lists now are = 82, 21, 94, and 44....so from 8 codes to 4, woohoo !
beejay31000
BULLWINKLE
you might have fixed some stuff in replacing that unit....??
beejay31000
BULLWINKLE
well, i know mine idles weird too....when i let off the gas it will sit at 1500 for a second then slowly drop to 1000, and sumtimes if i am lucky it will drop all the way down to 900, but that rarely happens
beejay31000 said:
no. mine will idle at 800 or so, if the motor is cold, when you first start it (remember you have to hold the accelerator to the floor for it to fire wheather the motor is cold or warm) but after about 20 seconds, it bumps up to 1500 to 2200 and wont let off....*#(&#$(*@$#!!!!
beejay31000
BULLWINKLE
and your throttle cable is okay?
upon visual inspection, they look fine, it feels like it operates smoothly inside the car, and when it's ideling really high, i've gone to the throttle body and tried to push the assembly closed thinking it waas cracked open,but no luck
W
wickedstangs
Guest
Thermactor Pump
21-ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
82-Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAB)
94-Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (left side).
44-Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side).
Do you still have your smog pump? If you don't that can account for those 3 codes above.
Thermactor (Smog air pump)
This pumps fresh air into the exhaust system, to burn left over hydrocarbons, lowering emissions. The computer uses 2 air valves (TAB & TAD) to control where the air flows depending on engine operation.
Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) shunts air to the atmosphere, when no air is needed. When air is needed it sends air to the second valve TAD.
Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) diverts air either to the exhaust manifold, or directly to the catalytic converter.
Gawthle said:
21-ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
82-Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAB)
94-Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (left side).
44-Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side).
Do you still have your smog pump? If you don't that can account for those 3 codes above.
Thermactor (Smog air pump)
This pumps fresh air into the exhaust system, to burn left over hydrocarbons, lowering emissions. The computer uses 2 air valves (TAB & TAD) to control where the air flows depending on engine operation.
Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) shunts air to the atmosphere, when no air is needed. When air is needed it sends air to the second valve TAD.
Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) diverts air either to the exhaust manifold, or directly to the catalytic converter.
beejay31000
BULLWINKLE
fu** it, just pull it all off....j/k
W
wickedstangs
Guest
Funny that is why you have your codes either your Pump is bad or do what BeeJay say get reid of it. :lol:
still have to get the car SMOG'd says the DMV...so icant pull it off, not yet anyway, so i need to fix it...how do i go about checking it...or replacing it or whatever?
and then AFTER i fix it...and the codes; how do i take it out? i mean, i live in CA, its no big deal.....AFTER i fix the codes....
and then AFTER i fix it...and the codes; how do i take it out? i mean, i live in CA, its no big deal.....AFTER i fix the codes....